Pineconing is best
viewed from above. Here you can see the scales in the mid-body sticking
out sharply.
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This photo is of a very old betta
succumbing to the final stages of dropsy. Here the pineconing is
severe.
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Dropsy
Common Name:
Dropsy
Scientific Name:
varies by cause
Description:
Symptom of infection
Symptoms: body
swelling, pineconing scales, lethargy, color loss, loss of appetite
Cause:
bacterial, viral or parasitic
Medications:
Maracyn, Maracyn-Two combined
Ingredients:
Erythromycin, Minocycline
Notes: Dropsy
is nearly always fatal and some aqurist may prefer to not treat it
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More Information
Dropsy is one of the most deadly diseases plaguing aquarium
fish. It is easily diagnosed when full body swelling or “pineconing” of
the scales becomes evident. The pinecone effect occurs when fluids in
the abdomen expand the body causing the scales to stick outward,
resembling a pinecone when viewed from above. While it is slightly more
treatable in goldfish it is much more difficult to successfully cure in
tropical fish.
Dropsy in itself is not a disease but a symptom of one. Dropsy
describes the severe organ failure leading to the swelling and
pineconing. Part of the reason it is so difficult to treat is because
several things including internal bacterial infections, viruses and
parasitic infestations all of which have different methods for
treatment, can cause it. Even if the source is determined it is not
uncommon for the fish to later die from the irreversible effects of
kidney failure or other organs. Once the disease has progressed to the
point of abdominal swelling it is rarely treatable. Additional symptoms
of Dropsy include lethargy, dulled color and loss of appetite. Dropsy
is sometimes confused with the abdominal swelling associated with
constipation. Viewing from above can identify differences. When Dropsy
occurs the swelling shows obvious protrusions when looking down on the
fish. Bloating caused by constipation is usually only obvious when
viewing your fish from the side. Pineconing does not occur in a
constipated betta.
Dropsy is not considered contagious but the infection that caused it
could be so it is advised that sick fish be quarantined in a hospital
tank. It is also wise to sanitize any shared equipment like nets,
siphons or measuring spoons with a solution suitable for cleaning
aquarium equipment.
Because the success rate is so low it is entirely up to you to treat
this illness. In many cases the treatment is so potent that medicine
can cause even more damage to the kidneys. If you are sure of the cause
then treat accordingly using the proper fish medication. In most
circumstances the cause is not obvious. In these cases it is
recommended to use a broad-spectrum antibiotic or a combination of a
gram-positive and gram-negative antibiotics. This will cover a variety
of common bacterial infections. I recommend a combination of Mardel’s
Maracyn and Maracyn-Two. Kanacyn is also a very good antibiotic but is
quite strong and may or may not cause additional damage. If you fish is
still eating it will be more effective to soak some pellet food in a
mixture of tank water and antibiotic and feed it to him. This will
allow the medicine to take effect more quickly. This can be done in
addition to the package directions.
Whether or not you choose to treat Dropsy it is very important to make
your fish as comfortable as possible. Lowing the tank water level and
placing plants in the tank will allow him easier access to the surface
for air. Some aquarists will fashion a sling out of netting and place
it just below the water’s surface allowing the betta to always stay
near his air supply. Many medications cause dissolved oxygen levels to
drop so adding an air stone may help replace lost oxygen. Rapid gill
movement and gasping are signs of depleted oxygen levels. To relieve
the discomfort of bloating add 1/2 tsp aquarium salt per gallon of
water. This will help to draw some of the fluids out and relieve
pressure. Epsom salt baths are not recommended because of
inconsistencies in their success rate. As always never use table
salt in a fish tank. Aquarium salt can be purchased at your local fish
store. Most importantly, keep your tank water clean and stable and your
temperature at a comfortable 78˚F [25.5˚C].
Use caution when selecting a medication for your betta. Avoid any
herbal tonics or remedies that contain Melaleuca like Melafix or
Bettafix. These medications are mostly antiseptics and may not be
appropriate for serious infections. If your betta is sick enough to
need a real antibiotic then give him one.
Just a note…
Antibiotic resistance is a problem facing aquarists all over the world.
This occurs when bacteria evolve to make newer, stronger strains that
cannot be combated by available antibiotics. To avoid creating tougher
strains of bacteria be sure to carefully follow the directions on the
medicine package and to never stop or change medications part way
through treatment unless your betta is having a dangerous reaction to
them. As with any disease, remove your sick fish from the community
tank and isolate him for treatment in a hospital tank. Never medicate
healthy fish.
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